Capitola Village Articles

The History Hike

When I visit a place, I want to get to know its character as well as its sights. I guess that's why some folks call me a “history buff”.

As the first community along the California coast established specifically as a seaside resort, Capitola Here's one of my favorite ways to spend a day in historic Capitola Village, get a little exercise, eat some good food, and shop for unique gifts. Pick up a free copy of the Capitola Village Historical Walking Tour and Map from any Village business.

I always start at the city's parking lot (entered from Park/Monterey or from Capitola Ave./Riverview behind City Hall, with all-day meters and a change machine). From the lot, walk uphill to Monterey Ave. and turn right to face the railroad tracks and a beautiful view of Monterey Bay. About 130 years ago, you would have traveled to Capitola by train, and this would have been your first spectacular view of the place. To your left is the Inn at Depot Hill, named for the historic train depot which served the area, placing you among millions of visitors who have walked down Monterey Avenue to the Village over the last century and a quarter.

When you get to the corner of Capitola and Monterey Avenues, stop in Kickback (unique fashions) and Kitty McNeil Designs(original jewelry). I love the fun and constantly changing merchandise in these shops, but I also appreciate being in such good historic company with the tourists of the past. This 1881 F.A. Hihn Building is the oldest in the Village, traditionally a first stop for visitors because it housed the Camp Capitola Superintendent's Headquarters.

If you assume that a town that's been serving beach-goers for more than a century offers the same things you can find at a chain store in LA, then you should see the clothing designed and painted by local artist Diane Wat in Capitola Beach Co. in the next block on Monterey Ave. You'll find similar novelties at Cruz'n next door.

For some good exercise and a fabulous view, cross Monterey to the back of the parking lot and walk up the concrete stairs to the Depot Hill bluff where you'll find a row of Victorian and Queen Anne homes and a quiet bench for a bird's eye view of the Village.

Like any seagull, you might want to ponder where to have lunch from this high perch. International choices cluster near the bottom of the stairs: Paradise Sushi for Japanese (with a varied lunch buffet), El Toro Bravo and Taqueria Baja for Mexican, or Thai Basil for the flavors of Thailand. The Bluewater Steakhouse(serving good-quality American food and a full bar specializing in a mean Passion Berry Martini and must-try “Lava Flows”) sits where the pre-fire elegant Capitola hotel used to be, so you'll be eating and drinking with an historic view of the beach and Esplanade Park. The historic merry-go-round has been replaced by the Esplanade Park bandstand hosting free concerts on summer Wednesdays at 6:00 PM in Capitola's tradition of public art and entertainment.

From your perch on Depot Hill, you can barely spy the sign for Zelda's, another American restaurant with outdoor dining, a full bar, and special happy-hour Margueritas.
If you eat lunch on Zelda's deck or the nearby outdoor seating for Ristorante Il Pirate, you can enjoy beach-watching to one side and study the facades of the 1902 “Six Sisters” duplexes across the street. The train tracks used to run in front of the Six Sisters and stop for tourists to grab some Capitola refreshment just as you're doing now.

No tour of Capitola is complete without a walk to the end of the wharf, maintained for generations as one of the oldest wooden piers in the state. The locals tell the maybe true story that Alfred Hitchcock was sitting on the Capitola Wharf enjoying the migration spectacle of the Sooty Sheerwaters when he got the idea for The Birds.

On your way back, check out the historic and colorful Venetian Court, said to be the first condominium complex in the United States.

Many of Capitola's Village restaurants, bars, and coffee locations offer views of Venetian Court and Soquel Creek: Paradise Beach Grille, Edgewater, Fog Bank, Beach House, Mr. Toots Coffeehouse, Margueritaville, and Stockton Bridge Grille (where you can have unique small-plate tapas and drinks overlooking Soquel Creek and the historic Venetian Court).

After your lunch, how about a little stroll along the creek and some antiquing? Cross the street from Stockton Bridge Grill and walk up the little foot path along the east side of Soquel Creek. The little yards separating the path from the creek used to be tent sites for Camp Capitola, the first vacation real estate in coastal California. When you get to the train trestle, turn right and then turn left at the end of the path onto Capitola Avenue, home of Three Little Birds and Betsy's Summerhouse Antiques. These shops specialize in items from a village life lost in much of America, so you too can have a charming Capitola cottage no matter where you live.

Right across the street is the CapitolaMuseum (open 12:00-4:00 on Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays) in cute beach cottages preserved and moved from elsewhere to the City Hall land.

Before you head back to the parking lot behind City Hall, check out the dinner menu at Papa O's at the corner of Capitola Ave. and Riverview. It's an old-fashioned family-run neighborhood restaurant with very reasonable prices, a locals' favorite. Where else can you get a chef who sings and dances to New York, New York on request if orders aren't too stacked?

I think of the Village as the most charming and complex character in a novel called Capitola. There's always something new to learn about her in a small town where locals are often happy to tell you some stories – or maybe even sing you a song.

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